Gaelic in the Maritimes

For those who don't know, today is La na #Gàidhlig (Gaelic Day) on Twitter, as well as #TIML2016, or International Twitterday in Lesser-Used Languages. In honours of these, as well as of my love for languages (and Gaelic in particular), I've decided the write the first in what will hopefully be a series of blogposts about language here in the Maritimes. My hope is that these posts will give visitors (and even locals) an insight into some of the complexities of culture in the Maritimes, both historically and presently.

    Talking about Gaelic in the Maritimes always elicits a bizarre range of responses. From non-Maritimers, I've heard everything from people who think that Gaelic is used daily in the streets of Halifax (it's not) to people who had no idea that there was a European language other than English or French that had, at one time, been the main language in parts of this region (more on that later). From Maritimers, there's whole other range, depending partly on where you are and whether Gaelic is part of someone's heritage. On the one end of the spectrum, there are those of us (yes, I'm including myself here) who are Gaelic revivalists in one form or another- we see the language as having an intrinsic value in the cultural history of our region, and are interested in supporting it in various ways. On the complete other end of the spectrum are those who feel that Gaelic, and any efforts to revive or support it, are a waste of time. Most people sit somewhere in the middle-they're interested, and vaguely aware of the role it plays in their personal and regional heritage, but don't know too much about it.

   Now, before I get any further, I need to define what I'm talking about. "Gaelic" is a term that is commonly used to refer to a variety of different Celtic languages, all spoken to varying degrees. Although Irish Gaelic was spoken in Newfoundland, here I'm specifically talking about Scottish Gaelic, which was much more prevalent in the Maritimes than any of the other varieties. Most of the time, when people in the Maritimes talk about Gaelic, this is the variety they mean. Scottish Gaelic has a long history in Canada (a story for another time); by Confederation, it was the third-most spoken European language in the country. In Cape Breton (which I'll mostly be talking about, since I'm more familiar with the history there), it may well have been the majority language for the entire island (certainly it was in many communities).

So what happened?

Well, a few things. Unfortunately, Gaelic was already on the decline by the time it made it to Canada (yet another story for another time), which certainly didn't help the cause. The way the language was used, and, more importantly, how it was viewed, also had a major role. Gaelic was certainly the language of social life for many-of songs, of gatherings, heck there was even a newspaper published in the language in Cape Breton until the early 1900s. It wasn't, however, a language with much institutional backing-English was the language of education and government (though not for lack of trying, as some evidence suggests that an attempt was made to have Gaelic added as an official language of Canada, though this was rejected). Perhaps more importantly, however, many held negative attitudes towards the language,  viewing it as association with poverty and a lack of education. There is, for example, a great song from the late 1800s about a woman who pretends not to speak Gaelic, an example of the way people viewed the language at the time: many felt downright ashamed to speak the language in public, which is a quick path to language death. There is even some suggestion that the government played an active role in discouraging the use of the language, though I don't know enough about that side of things to get into it here.

Most of today's Maritimers, myself included, are only a few generations away from those native speakers. Gaelic was spoken natively by at least some of my great-grandparents, and although some of their children may have had some knowledge of the language at one time, by the time I was born only a phrase or two was handed down. However, Gaelic is certainly not dead-it lives on in many ways. "Cead Mile Failte" (One Hundred Thousand Welcomes), has persisted in written form in many communities (interestingly, most people know what it means in writing, but before learning Gaelic formally I'd never heard anyone speak it aloud), and "Failte" (Welcome) is becoming common on many communities' welcome signs. The word "Ceilidh" (pronounced Kay-lee) also stood the test of time: referring today to one of our famous "Kitchen Parties," ceilidh actually comes from the Gaelic for "a visit." Gaelic has also had many impacts on the dialects of English spoken in certain areas, although that, yet again, is a story for another day.

In recent decades, there's also been a very active movement to support and revive the language. People in my generation and that of my parents are realizing what we have lost, and attempting to reverse that process. In fact, there even exist official offices supporting this work in Nova Scotia (pictured left). Much of the work is in the form of education- the Gaelic College, for instance, offers Gaelic immersion programs, and many schools in Nova Scotia now offer the language as a subject. Increasing the language's visibility has also been another huge element:  bilingual signs now announce the names of many places, and an official Gaelic-Nova Scotian flag has even been developed.

So, what does this mean for visitors to our area? Is there a sort of tangible cultural heritage that the traveller (and, dare I say, tourist) can access? Well, yes and no. You are highly unlikely to hear Gaelic casually being spoken in the streets (I certainly never have), although you will see it on the signs announcing some communities. If you go to Cape Breton, you may well also see the Gaelic flag flying, or as a vanity license plate. Gaelic also marks some of the place names dotting our landscape-most notably places like Ben Eoin. There are also places that a traveller can visit to learn more: the Highland Village Museum, in Iona, Cape Breton, is a fantastic living history museum where you can learn not only about the language, but also about the customs and ways of life of Gaelic settlers. The bookshop also sells a variety of materials relating to Gaelic. If you have a little more time to spare, you can also take a Gaelic immersion class as the Gaelic College (or Colaiste na Gàidhlig), which also happens to have some stunning grounds, an a small museum as well. I would also encourage you, if you are truly interested in the Gaelic heritage here, to take that as an opportunity to dig below the surface by talking to people you meet about it. Older generations, especially, will remember Gaelic-speaking parents and friends. The only caveat here, of course, is to do so in a respectful and informed way, remembering that not everyone has an interest in (or even heritage of) Gaelic, and that for some this may be a sore subject.

Up Up and Away: Tips and Reviews from Edmundston

      Last week I had the opportunity to spend a few days up in Edmundston. Having recently returned to NB after being away studying, I'm pretty excited to get this blog going again and so, naturally, when I knew I was going to be in a whole new part of the province for a few days, I made sure to make a list of places to check out and review. As I continue working on this blog, I've decided that it's time to make the format less review-centric, and more a true blog. Therefore, this post is going to contain sort of all of the details, from getting around to food etc., rather than breaking them up into separate posts.
    For those who don't know (and that's precisely who I write for after all!), Edmundston is located in the very tip-top of New Brunswick, on the Northwest corner. It's not inaccurate to describe this place as the end of the province-Québec is less than twenty KM away, and MCafaine is literally right across the river. Around 16 000 people call Edmundston home, and they're primarily French-speaking. On a small cultural note, Edmundston is not, strictly speaking, an Acadian community; rather, most people from Edmundston are actually Brayons, a separate francophone group. On that note, Edmundston is also considered the capital of the "Republic of Madawaska," which is a sort of historical reference to the fact that, early after the US became independent, this region was disputed between the US and Great Britain, leaving locals to declare themselves independent (though that never was recognized by either power, and, with the border now firmly settled since a while, "La république" is a symbolic term rather than a boat fide separatist movement).

So, with the introductions over, let's get straight down to a few of the places that I can recommend.

Le pirate-This restaurant came highly recommended on Trip Advisor and other similar websites, and so it was my first stop for dinner while in the city. I'm glad that I had read the reviews in advance-I probably wouldn't have stopped and eaten a lobster roll there once I realized it was a truckstop but, reassured by numerous claims that they have the best lobster rolls in the Maritimes, I headed in. The menu carries a fairly extensive list of standard small take-out food (sandwiches, burgers, etc.), while also offering some great variations (lobster poutine, for example). The real star of the show are the lobster rolls, which are fairly reasonably priced at around $7 for one, $14 for two, or $10 for a lobster roll and a crab roll, which was the option I went for. I have to say, I definitely think this place is worth the hype-this was the most generous lobster roll I've ever been served at a restaurant, with entire chunks of meat and minimal fillers. Something that flew under the radar on the online reviews but which I think also deserves a shout out here are the onion rings-things, crispy, and greasy (which, here, is very much a good thing). Le Pirate is located in the Edmundston Truck Stop, just off exit 19 off the Trans Canada (Highway 2). Very clean establishment as well.

Café Lous Bleu-This spot was the one that caused me to reconsider whether I really want to put all of Edmundston in one post. Café Lotus Bleu is precisely the kind of little gem that inspired me to write this blog. Right downtown Edmundston (it can be a tad hard to spot), Lotus Bleu is an organic, vegetarian café with the decor and vibe that go with that. The staff are incredibly friendly, and the menu offers many options. The soup "velouté aux legumes" (more or less a veggie bisque) was the perfect thing for an icy winter's day, but it was the combination of the delicious coffee (a latté served in a big ol' bowl) and great ambiance that brought me back the next day to just sit there, sipping coffee and watching the world go by outside the window. Prices are a little on the steep side, but they reflect the quality. Also a good availability of products like veggie pâté from the fridge. Highly recommended.

Brasserie Petit Sault- One of the suggestions that I kept getting was to check out the local brewery, Brasserie Petit Sault. Their "Boutique" is located right downtown, and allows you to sample an array of locally-themed beers. The prices were fairly reasonable for a tasting, and it offers a fun attraction to go spend some time at. Also, if you find the cases in stores, they tend to be quite comical.Pictured to the left is a glass of their pilsner, La Kedgwick.

Sucré Salé NB-I was specifically directed to Sucré Salé to enjoy their Ployes, a type of crêpe local to the region. For around $5 one can enjoy a rather large ploye accompanied by creton (a sort of meat spread not unlike the filling of a meat pie) (pictured left). They also sell numerous sweets, and the attached store boasts a variety of kitchen-related items.

So, that's my shortlist for Edmundston. Being in the Winter, I wasn't able to check out the outdoor-oriented attractions like the Botanical Gardens. Overall, I was very impressed with how friendly the community is (in fact, when I tweeted to ask for suggestions of places to check out, I had several responses from the mayor!), and I would definitely like to return in a warmer season.

M&T Deli

Well, it seems like time to get back to the old bread and butter of this blog-restaurant reviews. I originally thought that not travelling as much this year meant that I wouldn't really have the chance to do these-and to some extent, it is true that I've seen a lot less new restaurants this year than years previous. What I didn't realize was that staying mostly in Fredericton does give me the opportunity to get to know places better before I review them. Such is the case with M&T Deli.

I actually first went to M&T (and first meant to review it) over a year ago, while out for a walk downtown and in search of lunch. We really enjoyed the food and the vibe of the restaurant, and I've been meaning to go back for a while. Fast forward to this summer, when I've had the chance to enjoy lunch and many, many snacks in this cool little downtown spot. M&T has the kind of vibe that you want from a little café-local art plasters the walls, and the building still retains some of its architectural charm. The Queen street location also means that, if you don't want to eat in, you can take your sandwich to any of number of lovely nearby spots for a picnic-I suggest Officer's Square or the river bank.

The food consists of several variations on a similar theme, with your choice of sandwich, panini, wrap, or salad. The flavour combinations are what you would expect from a hip downtown café-think various combinations of ingredients like chicken, avocados, cranberries, and the like. Lighter, summer-y sort of flavours. A meal will run you around ten dollars, and that includes Covered Bridge Potato Chips (made in nearby Heartland), and a pickle.

As I mentioned, M&T also offers lots of great bakery-style snacks. What originally kept me coming back was actually the highly reasonable prices-you can pick up a cinnamon bun (my personal favourite) for under two dollars after taxes, and treats like giant cookies or muffins run at similar prices. I've spent many a coffee break running down here hoping that there were still some cinnamon buns left (they can sell out quickly some days). Though I've never tried it, they also offer breakfast and have daily specials on a chalkboard out front.

Book Review: Irving vs. Irving

Being a student, one of the best parts of summer is the chance to trade my school readings for a good book. With exams over, I took the opportunity to finally get down to reading Jacques Poitras' Irving vs. Irving, which came out in September of 2014. Anyone who knows even a little about New Brunswick knows that the Irving family plays an immense role in the province's economy. In many ways, this role-if not dominance-is visible to anyone who so much as passes through the province: you'll likely fill-up with Irving gasoline, be passed by Irving trucks on the highway, and see signs for numerous attractions named after or featuring the Irving family and its companies. There is, however, a lot more below the visible surface, from the companies owned by family members (including trucking, rail, and food companies) to the Irving's role in provincial politics. Irving vs. Irving focuses, primarily, on one of those Irving-dominated industries in particular: print media.

   Himself a former employee of both the Telegraph-Journal and the Times-Transcript, Poitras uses Irving ownership of virtually all English-language print media in the province (and some French-language print media) as a vehicle for exploring the dynamics of New Brunswick's wealthiest family. In particular, Poitras often zeroes in on the apparent, if not inherent, conflicts of interest involved in coverage of Irving-centric stories. Through this lense, Poitras takes us through a chunk of New Brunswick history, Irving history, and the history of the newspapers themselves.

   Irving vs. Irving is a well-written, and extremely well-researched book that offers a look into an important NB topic. Poitras has an approachable and thorough writing style. The story of the Irvings can at times be hard to follow- Poitras provides charts, such as family trees, to help clarify, and gives the occasional reminder of just who he is talking about, making it a little easier to grasp exactly what is going on.

For those not from the region, Irving vs. Irving provides an excellent backgrounder on the Irving family, with an in-depth look at the family's role in NB media. In doing so, Poitras also gives helpful nods to other topics- events in NB politics, provincial dynamics and, perhaps most interestingly, the limitations of small news markets. Anyone who would like to get a closer grasp on these elements of New Brunswick would be well advised to read this book.

For those from the Maritimes, Poitras provides an important investigative-style account of aspects that play a major role in NB (and, at times, regional) politics. The background and insights provided by Irving vs. Irving are, in my opinion, important for anyone interested in the issue of media in the Maritimes.

Fredericton's Lovely, Lovely Trails

One of the best things about Fredericton in the summer, hands down no doubt, is being outdoors. I've always been a fan of a run jaunt leisurely stroll through Odell Park, or a walk along the river. But what I've discovered this year is just how great Fredericton's network of trails is. This Handy Dandy Trails Map shows 17 different official trails. There's quite a variation in them- a few aren't actually connected to the network, but take you around parks or tracks. The rest generally link up, meaning that not only are they great for exercising on a beautiful day, but they make a great way to get around town too-the fact that many are on old rail beds means that they generally take you everywhere you need to go, including straight through the middle of downtown. This summer, I've actually made a point of commuting on my bike as much as possible-and hope to write a post about utilitarian cycling in the near future.

Seriously though, this could be your commute.

Commuting aside, Fredericton's trails have become my new weekend pastime, especially on nice days, and so today's focus is more on recreation and making the trails network a part of your visit or day out.

The Trails
  South Riverfront Trail Number 3 on the trails map (link above), this path follows the South bank of the Saint John River between Waterloo Row and the Delta Hotel. Most of the path is paved, with the exception of the short portion between the walking bridge (more on that great spot below) and the park fronting Waterloo Row. This trail passes a number of the City's main attractions, and offers spectacular views of the river.

Lincoln Trail Number 6 on your handy-dandy map ,the Lincoln trail starts at the South end of the pedestrian bridge, following a tree-lined path between the houses of Town Plat to the University, and then veering East, following a gentle slope up a cliff overlooking the Princess Margaret Bridge and the Saint John River before sloping back down towards the river near the Potato Farm. This path is paved from the bridge through to near the potato farm, and is a good way to get to the market and the universities, takes you through some older neighbourhoods (with some earlier houses still visible), and connects conveniently to most of the other paths. Connects to the Trans Canada Trail

  Crosstown Trail Number 8 on the map, this one is more utilitarian than anything else, bridging the distance between the Lincoln Trail near UNB, and the Valley Trail near the Exhibition grounds. It's not paved the whole way, and parts of it follow along the streets. This is one of the more confusing paths.
  Valley Trail Number four on the map, picks up where the Crosstown leaves off and follow the south bank of the river west of Fredericton. I can't write as much about this one since I've yet to have the pleasure, but based off where it goes, I expect fantastic river views.
  North Riverfront Trail Number 11. This trail runs between the walking bridge and the Nashwaak Commons on the North Side of the river. This path offers some really great views of the river and takes you through some nice parks (and past an assortment of businesses). There is a big caveat though: the condition of the trail between the Westmoreland Street Bridge and Carleton Park (near the walking bridge) varies from small path perched near the river, to steep tiny path. Heed the signs that warn of rough trails ahead!
  Northside Trail Number 12 on the good ol' map,this trail heads west from the Trail Visitor Centre, starting through the backs of neighbourhoods heading behind houses, and eventually veering closer to the river. This one provides a useful connection between the different trails on the North Side, and would probably be useful for commuting. Paved.
 






  Nashwaak Trail 14 Follows from the walking bridge on the west side of the Nashwaak River. Much of this path feels isolated, though it actually heads behind neighbourhoods and houses. The trail pops out near Marysville providing access to services, then heads back into the woods and over a great walking bridge with lovely views. Connects to the NB trail.
  Gibson Trail Number 15, connects the Trail Visitor Centre and Marysville, on the East bank of the Nashwaak River, although it goes further away from the river than the Nashwaak Trail tends to. Along this trail is Hyla Park, an amphibian preserve.
Pedestrian Bridge (Left) Number 1 on your map, this former rail bridge provides fantastic views of the river and both sides of the city, while connecting the North and South sides.









  Suggested Routes If you've been following my blog (or you've read back), you'll know that I previously did a post with a suggested walking tour downtown. The nice thing about the bike trails is that they actually reach most of the attractions you'll want to see downtown, connect to several hotels, and provide an alternative, tree-lined, and more leisurely route. I've also added a route that takes you a bit further out of town into Marysville.

Take a lunch! Eat in a park! 

  Touristy Downtown Fredericton The South Riverfront Trail and the Lincoln Trail (up to UNB) provide a good combined route that actually takes in most of Fredericton's main sites. The Legislature, the Garrison District, the Playhouse, the Former Governor's Residence and the Beaverbrook Gallery are all on Queen Street, just off this path (the Gallery actually sits on the path itself).







Things will be great!

From the trail, follow the overpass (sign pictured left) for easy access to City Hall and the arts and crafts shops of the Garrison District. This route also offers signs for attractions (pictured right), easy bike parking, washrooms, and the tourist information centre.





Beaverbrook, the Legislature and the Playhouse are actually more easily reached by turning off the path where it reaches the statue picture left-this offers the advantage of following the direction of traffic on Queen, which is one way, though bike parking is harder to come by, and signage is lacking.

From the Walking Bridge, follow the lovely tree-lined Lincoln Trail south, passing many older homes. The Fredericton Farmers' Market can be reached by turning off the path at George Street (pictured left when travelling north. Travelling south from the bridge, turn off at the first street the trail crosses).







The Crown Plaza Hotel's parking lot, (sign pictured left) and the Delta Hotel are both located right on the pathway. Bike rentals are available near the Lighthouse on the Green, and bike parking is available at the Library and the Lighthouse, amongst other locations.









  Loop Through Marysville The architecture of the former mill town of Marysville has always been some of my favourite in the city. The Nashwaak Trail and the Gibson Trail make a near-perfect loop through this area: from the TVC, pick one and head north until you reach the aptly-named Bridge street, cross over the bridge, and then head back down the other side. If you want to see more of the architecture, head east up the hill on Bridge St. for a few blocks. While heading along the Gibson trail, the Hyla Nature Park makes for a worth while stop.

  A few tips

Guidance Signs Notice that the name of the trail appears in the blue box, attractions (and their distance) in the green section, and little markers for washrooms and food in smaller blue boxes at the bottom. If you're coming from the US, remember that a Km is 1000 metres, and that a mile is about 1.6 Km or 1600m. See the picture on the left for an example.


Trail Maps are located at strategic locations along the trails, on big signs (left).

Parking is not always the easiest thing to come by, but can be found in many parks, as well as at the Lighthouse on the Green and the Fredericton Public Library

Shared Use Fredericton's trails are mixed-use. This means that, no matter whether you're biking, running with a friend, or walking with a stroller, all these other uses are also going on at the same time on the same paths. Bikes are supposed to be limited to 15 Km/h, yield to pedestrians, and ring their bells when they pass-if you're biking, keep these rules in mind. If you're not on a bike, remember that not everyone follows these to a T. Paths are much busier weekends and, of course, nice days.

Kids I wanted to make this a separate note. Pathways are great for families, especially on weekends and sunny days. Both people with kids and all other trail users need to keep in mind that sometimes kids are a bit unpredictable-I've seen way too many situations where parents aren't watching kids, or are watching them but let them run into the path of oncoming bikes. Similarly, bikes need to make sure to yield to kids (who, as pedestrians, have right of way), exercise extra caution around them.

Trail Visitor Information Centre (TVC) is located just past the pedestrian bridge on the North Side, and has bathrooms, water for dogs, and information.

As a final note, especially for people from out of town, it's important to be aware that while Fredericton's trails are excellent, they're not 100% perfect. Sometimes you'll see curb cuts that are missing, trails that unexpectedly become dirt paths or sidewalks, or cross the street without warning, and signs may be missing. Signage is better on some paths than others, but still often lacks indications for tourist attractions.

Back into the swing of things

Well folks, I've decided that it's time to get down to blogging once again. Yes yes, I know that the summer is already well in full swing, but better late than never, right? Over the course of the next few weeks, you can also, hopefully, expect to see some changes to the way this blog works. I'll be updating some of the info sections, fixing the tags that somehow went a bit askew, etc. I do, however, hope to get into some more in-depth content and return to the more narrative style I'd always intended this blog to have (hence this chatty little post. You'll also notice a change in what I'm writing about-I'm travelling less than in previous years, which will mean more articles focusing on familiar places, more posts about books/culture/news/events, etc. And now, without further ado, onto that post I was promising....

Napoli Pizza

This is the beginning of a series of posts on that perennial favourite: pizza! In Sydney, Cape Breton, people take their pizza loyalty seriously. Very seriously. In most cases, you're either a Napoli family or a Kenny's family. You'll find few other pizza places in the city. Napoli pizza is located on Charlotte Street in Downtown Sydney (although they've a new location opening up soon as well). It's a small little pizzeria with, as I said, a very loyal clientèle, and it can be quite busy at times. Two things distinguish Napoli from other pizza places: 1) The crust: Nova Scotians, and especially Cape Bretoners, like their pizza with a thin, floppy crust. Napoli delivers on this wish- a piece of pizza comes nowhere nearing supporting itself if you hold it by the crust, and the crust itself is flavourful and soft. 2) The cheese: Napoli uses Saputo mozzarella, and is not skimpy on the cheese; this is exactly how pizza is on TV, with cheese that slides off if you hold it, and stretches when you bite it. I once even had a friend who had lived in Italy tell me, while visiting Sydney, that Napoli's cheese (and the pizza overall, really), was the closest she'd ever had to real Italian pizza here in Canada. Aside from these two star features, the toppings are delicious and plentiful, and prices are quite reasonable. Without a doubt, Napoli is the best pizza in Sydney, if not Nova Scotia.

Isaac's Way

In the old York County Courthouse, in Fredericton's Downtown, sits Isaac's Way. I'm told Isaac's Way has expanded a lot in recent years, having come from a small location. The spot really couldn't be better, located right in the heart of the city (I've no doubt that it's packed at lunch on weekends). The beautiful historic building on the outside hides a swanky modern design on the inside, and there's no doubt that this is one of the better decorated restaurants I've been to in Fredericton. They also have a lovely deck out back, should the weather permit. I've been to Isaac's Way twice so far- once just for dessert, another time for a full meal (which will be the main focus of this review). We arrived when it wasn't so busy yet, and were promptly seated, and provided with plenty of water, and very friendly service. The service remained friendly throughout the meal, although, as the restaurant became busy, it was abundantly clear that it was also under-staffed, and we were left without drink refills, and then waited a long time to pay the bills. This isn't the staff's fault, of course-it was busy at an odd hour, and everyone remained really friendly throughout-but it was a bit of a nuisance. I ordered the special, Fish and Chips. It was served in a light batter, very non greasy, and well-proportioned between batter and fish. The fries were also nicely done. It was certainly not a bad fish and chips however, given the restaurant's reputation (and décor), I was expecting something a little better-it was quite average,really. My fellow diners tried a wide range of foods- the menu has some interesting choices- and the burgers, chicken, and tofu and peanut butter noodles all received positive reviews (I can vouch for those noodles-they were quite good). The prices for our orders were quite reasonable-the Thai peanut and tofu noodles, coming in at $16, was the most expensive at our table-although there were much pricier options available. The real treat at this restaurant, both times I visited, was the dessert. Their menu contains what appear to be home-made desserts, and they have the essentials: carrot cake, pie, and chocolate cakes. I've tried the brownie chocolate cheesecake both times, and it's, without any doubt, worth returning for. I've heard similar things about the carrot cake. Overall, Isaac's way has great atmosphere-well decorated and in a historical building, it will impress family, dates, good friends or business colleagues. There's a wide range of menu items-mostly the standard burgers, sandwiches, etc. but with a few fun twists-and the prices range from surprisingly reasonable (the burgers were around 12-14$ each) to a little pricier (but on par with the atmosphere). The service did really lag towards the end of the meal, however, and that is one of my bigger bet peeves. I also want to make a point of noting one thing that did impress me very much- a waitress taking the time to explain menu items in French to francophone diners. This isn't something I see nearly often enough in Fredericton, and I was extremely pleased to see it here.

Fredericton Market (Boyce Farmers' Market)

One of my absolute favourite things about living in Fredericton is visiting the Fredericton Market (more properly the Boyce Farmers' Market, as there is now a market on the North Side, which will get its own blog post). I's a lot of fun to head out on a Saturday morning and join the crowds-the market atmosphere is always a lively one-for some breakfast, lunch, crafts, or produce. The market also has a variety of unique shops-food vendors sell different interesting creations or flavours, and there's a lot of good snack food to grab and munch on as you walk around. It's also a great spot to find gifts and souvenirs. So, without further ado, here are some tips for Saturday mornings at the market When The market is open from 6 AM to 1PM, but it will be a different experience depending on when you go. Typically, if you want to avoid crowds and line-ups, and ensure that some of the more popular items will still be available, you should go early-say, before nine. Around nine or ten AM the market gets more crowded, as families, tourists, and people who just aren't early risers (guilty!) get out of our beds and wander down. While the market is open until one PM, I find that vendors start running out of things or even closing up by noon. Crowd levels vary, of course, with the weather and the season. Getting there/Parking Parking is perhaps the trickiest bit about going to the market. If you don't arrive early, you will have to circle the block for a spot-and don't be surprised if you wind up having to walk five or six blocks. If you're near the downtown area, I would recommend just walking, as you can avoid the headache of parking, save the environment a little, and enjoy some exercise. The Market is located on George street, just a few blocks East of Regent St. Direction of walking People generally tend to walk around the building in a clockwise manner, if you're facing the building from the street where the food vendors are. Food Food is the best part of the market, I think. Inside the building, you'll find a variety of baked goods and butcher shops. Outside is where the take-out style food is. There's also a restaurant in the middle of the building. Here are a few of the places you could keep an eye out for: FrostedFrosted is a cupcake vendor, just inside the market from the parking lot. The cupcakes are flavourful and moist, many with delicious butter cream frosting on top, and under $3 each. There are a variety of interesting flavours-get there early if you want to have all the choices! The Bundle HutBundles are an interesting creation, essentially similar to a large egg roll stuffed with a variety of different flavours-donair, teriyaki chicken, apple pie etc. They're a great snack to eat while walking through the market. Samosa Delite and Yummy SamosasAs a bit of an interesting phenomenon, a modified version of the samosa has become very, very popular in parts of southern NB. Samosa Delite and Yummy Samosa are the two main places to try NB's Samosas at the market-both have their own large following, so you'll have to grab a samosa at each to decide. Samosas are reasonably priced-a little cheaper if you buy by the dozen or half dozen-and come in a variety of flavours, including vegetable, beef, and chicken. They are also available mild (which is to say, not spicy at all) or hot. Note that lines can get quite long. Richie's BBQRichie's is a food truck selling a variety of foods, but my favourite is their donair. For those who haven't tried a donair yet, Richie's is a great place to do so, selling one of my favourites. A number of other foods are also available to try. Two vendors sell freshly squeezed orange juice at reasonable prices (one of my market favourites). Several vendors sell a variety of baked goods-you'll find everything from squares to berliners here- hot dogs, noodles, crêpes, and lobster rolls are all available outside. Produce and meat Those looking for produce and meat will find a variety of vendors. Most produce is sold outside, with several farms being present depending on what's in season-this is a great place to find fiddle heads, an NB specialty, and also local blueberries. Inside there are several vendors selling a wide range of meat, as well as a large fishmonger (you can get all your maritime favourites here as well, including clams, scallops and lobster, season dependent). In addition to produce and meats, there's a large cheese shop near one of the building's entrances, and a small shop selling homemade pastas.

King Street Alehouse

I'd been trying to get to the Alehouse for a long time-as in, since it was the Garrison District Ale House. For those who don't know, a fire caused Garrison to relocate to what is now the King STreet Alehouse, a few blocks away. Last time we tried to check out this spot, the lineup was around 45 mins-a sure sign it must be good, but a long time to wait when hungry. So it was a nice surprise to see it fairly empty this past weekend for lunch. The Alehouse is a restaurant of the dimly lit variety, a classy kind of place that is comparable perhaps to the Keg in terms of atmosphere. The lunch menu contained a range of foods-a variety of starers, a few different sandwiches and wraps, and a whole host of hamburgers. The hamburgers ranged from around 11 dollars to the upper teens in price, and a are served with a choice of side; other meal options for lunch were comparably priced. The Alehouse also lives up to its name with an extensive drink menu consisting of, according to the server, over one hundred options. For lunch I chose the blue cheese burger, which came highly recommended. In a world where gourmet burgers have become a huge trend, the blue cheese burger has become a bit of a staple, as have a few of the other options on the Alehouse's menu (like the Thai peanut burger)-but with choices such as a pepperoni burger (with marinara sauce) and jerk chicken burger, there are some more creative options available. Sides ranged from the standard sweet potato and classic fries, to a bowl of the soup of the day-in this case, fiddle head and chicken chowder. All of the sides I tried were great, served exactly how I like them. The sweet potato fries were served with a chipotle mayo style dip-a touch many restaurants have dropped by which I liked seeing. The classic fries were long and thin, similar to a shoestring but still had a good potato flavour. The chicken and fiddle head chowder was an interesting combination and a nice chowder, though perhaps not the best way to showcase fiddle heads, which were a little overpowered by the chowder flavour. I only had a taste of my own burger this time round; the meat was fantastic, not overcooked, juicy and flavourful, and served in a generous portion. The burgers were also topped with crispy, caramelized onions, which was a real delicious treat. After a few bites of the burger together, I noticed something unusual-I couldn't taste the blue cheese. Now, normally blue cheese isn't something that slips in undetected. It's definitely there in my pictures, so either there was only a teeny amount (I didn't find any when I took the burger apart about halfway through) or it was just not a very strong blue cheese (which may appeal to some), but I was a little disappointed, especially given how delicious the burger and onions were. The bun also didn't hold together particularly well, although it was tasty. All in all, the food was good, and this is definitely the kind of place to come on an important dinner, like a meeting, date, or birthday. There are plenty of food options on the lunch menu (making me guess that the dinner menu must be satisfying as well), serve was quite speedy, and the atmosphere is appropriate for finer dining. There's also an extensive drink menu, if that's something you're interested in. I will warn you, however, that the desert menu was quite limited (only four options).

The Palate

A few weeks ago, my family decided to go out for brunch with my aunt. She suggested we try the Palate, a nice little restaurant downtown Fredericton, on Queen street. We checked it out online and saw that it looked good, and quite affordable, and so we were pretty excited to go. The Palate is a nice little place downtown, conveniently located (although a little harder to park at). On Saturday morning it didn't take very long to be seated for breakfast-although we did see others waiting while we were eating. The staff were also quite friendly. The brunch menu is fairly extensive, with all of the staples plus a few more creative concoctions. For those so inclined, mimosas are also offered at brunch. I chose the traditional eggs benedict, which was also offered with three or four unique variations, including smoked salmon with cream cheese, and a lobster variety. Another good looking option on the menu is called the "Alpine" and includes potatoes, eggs, and cheese. The eggs benny, pictured below, was quite good. The hollandaise sauce was flavourful and the eggs well cooked. I tried a bite of a family member's smoked salmon version, and the smoked salmon was fantastic-definitely what I'll be getting next time. After a good breakfast, we ordered desserts-sticky toffee pudding and chocolate lava cake, to be precise. The desserts definitely stole the show-the sticky toffee pudding was a perfect combination of sweetness and toffee, and the lava cake was a rich and delicious chocolate. The food was delicious, but the service was incredibly slow-probably the longest I've ever waited for food. To be fair, the desserts tasted as though they were just cooked (and with the amount of time it took, they may well have been), but none of the breakfast food we ordered should have taken as long as it did. The restaurant also committed one of my big pet peeves-the menu online is not accurate. To be precise, the prices are several dollars less than what they are in reality, and a few dishes were missing. While the price on the menu is obviously the correct one, it makes the website a much less useful tool when you go in expecting one price, and leave having paid several dollars more per item. Overall, the food was good, and the desserts fantastic. It's a cute little restaurant, and good spot to go if you're downtown Freddy. Just don't go there if you're in any sort of a hurry, and be warned that the prices online are not, as of the time of writing this, accurate.

Saint John City Market

Saint John's City Market is one of the Port City's more well-known attractions, and has been on my to-do list for almost four years. I was really excited, then, to get the opportunity to peruse it one afternoon. The Market is located in Uptown Saint John, near to most of the city's other attractions, and attached by pedways to Brunswick Square and Market Square malls. The Market itself consists of a series of stalls selling mostly food, groceries, and snacks. You'll find some good souvenirs-maple products, blueberry products, and wine, for example. There's also an assortment of snack food and restaurants where you can grab lunch. One thing you'll find a lot of in the Market is samosas-which have taken off all over New Brunswick. Overall, the Market is a perfect place to visit as part of a day in Saint John-whether for lunch, souvenirs, or just a walk through.

The New Brunswick Museum

Those of you who've been following the blog will remember that, a few weeks ago, I posted a list of places in NB I hoped to get to visit this summer. Well, as luck would have it I caught a ride to Saint John to check out a few of those places this week, giving me an opportunity to give you full reviews for several of these places. I'll start out with a review of the New Brunswick Museum, located in the Market Square Mall in Uptown Saint John. The Museum spans three floors-the main floor has several exhibits devoted to the industrial history of New Brunswick, with focuses on forestry and shipbuilding. The second floor focuses on the environment, with exhibits on geology and on whales. The third floor features art, including a painng gallery and Mi'kmaw and Wolastoq (Maliseet)pottery. Prices are affordable, staff are friendly, and the museum is centrally located. It will take about an hour to an hour and a half to see everything in detail. The New Brunswick Museum has some strong points-forestry and shipbuilding were both of high importance to New Brunswick's development, and it does a good job of demonstrating this. The art section does a good job of explaining the basics of several art movements in the Maritimes. The Museum's gift shop is also particularly good, with a wide selection of books covering a variety of New Brunswick related topics, and a selection of art, maple products etc. Unfortunately, I was a little disappointed by the lack of background information-the Museum doesn't (as far as I could find, and I did look) cover the history of New Brunswick's different cultural groups, the founding of the province, or its participation in Confederation in any meaningful way, and there was very minimal acknowledgement of Aboriginal Cultures. I also found some of the exhibits a little difficult to follow, assuming that visitors already know the background information necessary to understand. Overall, the New Brunswick Museum is a good addition to a day (or half-day) spent in Uptown Saint John for anyone interested in NB's industrial history; the gift shop is also an excellent spot for people looking for a book about or craft from NB. That being said, the New Brunswick Museum by itself won't suffice for a comprehensive overview of the province's history and cultures.

Historical Cape Breton

This post is part of a series in the lead-up to Summer 2014. Look for weekly posts with lists, tips, and background information about travel in the Maritimes. As always, suggestions are welcome Cape Breton Island has a long and fascinating history. Called Unimaki (Land of Fog) prior to European contact, handed back and forth between France (as Ile Royale) and Britain (as Cape Breton) during the colonial period, briefly its own colony until 1820, and a centre of industry for coal, the history of Cape Breton is multi-layered and complex. Luckily, the island is home to many wonderful historic sites and museums aimed at helping you understand the history and cultures of this piece of North America. The places below are only a handful of the options you have for exploring the island's history. Some I have visited, some are on my to-do list this summer. This list is a general overview of the island-if you like it, please let me know, and I'll put lists of some more off-the-beaten-path historical sites! Chapel Island National Historic Site marks a longstanding meeting place for the Mi'kmaw people. Located in the community of Potlotek (near Saint Peter's), this historic site marks an important political and religious site for the Mikmaw. http://www.pc.gc.ca/APPS/CP-NR/release_e.asp?bgid=641&andor1=bg Wagmatcook Cultural Centre is located in Wagmatcook, on the Trans Canada Highway. The centre has a restuarant and gift shop showcasing Mi'kmaw crafts, and hosts monthly lectures on Mi'kmaw culture http://www.wagmatcookcentre.com/ Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada is a major must-see on the island. The Fortress of Louisbourg was a significant French stronghold in North America in the 1700s, at one time the fourth largest port on the continent and the site of decisive wars for control between France and Britain. One quarter of the Fortress (both town and fortifications) has been reconstructed, and during the summer costumed interpreters show you a glimpse of what life was once like here. The sight is highly significant in Canadian history, and could easily occupy a day of exploring. Louisbourg also had important relationships with the Mi'kmaw community, and the site now hosts an interpretive trail to help you understand that link better. http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/ns/louisbourg/index.aspx Highland Village Museum offers a glimpse into the history of Cape Breton's Scottish community, which makes up the majority of the island's present heritage. This site also offers reconstructions, but shows the evolution of life-housing, culture, work, and language-through time, beginning in Scotland, and ending in modern Cape Breton. https://highlandvillage.novascotia.ca/ Les Trois Pignons is a museum in the Acadian community of Chéticamp which showcases that community's cultural heritage, with a particular focus on Chéticamp's traditional rug hooking. http://www.lestroispignons.com/ Glace Bay Miner's Museum showcases an important part of the island's history-the coal mining industry. The museum provides an excellent insight into the industry, working conditions, and the labour movement in the mines. Visitors also have the opportunity to tour an actual mine shaft. The museum also hosts musical acts-if you get the chance, I highly recommend seeing The Men of the Deeps, a choir made up of former coal miners, which plays shows at the museum from time to time. http://www.minersmuseum.com/

My to-do list 2014: New Brunswick

With Summer 2014 just around the corner, I'll be doing a series of posts throughout April to give you ideas, background information, and tips and tricks to prepare for travelling to/in the Maritimes this summer. On Mondays, look out for my 2014 to-do lists for Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Cape Breton Island, and Prince Edward Island. On Fridays, stay tuned for a variety of articles about local culture, regional food specialties, and some travel tips. Suggestions for articles are always welcome! For the past few years I've had the opportunity to visit almost every nook and cranny of New Brunswick for work. I feel very fortunate to have gotten to see so much of the province, and discover so many places that are off the beaten path (and to be sharing those with you!). Unfortunately, the downside to travelling for work is that I often have to go right past places where I'd love to spend the entire day. This list includes places around the province that I hope to get to visit in 2014. As always, let me know what you think of the places that are on the list-and those that aren't! Fundy Region New Brunswick Museum The New Brunswick Museum is located downtown Saint John, in the Market Square building. This museum covers the history of New Brunswick, and would make a great stop for anyone in the area who wants to know a little more about the province. This is near the top of my must-see list for the year. http://www.nbm-mnb.ca/ Saint John City Market The City Market is one of Saint John's biggest attractions. Located downtown, the market is full of stalls selling all kinds of different ingredients and meals. http://www.sjcitymarket.ca/main.html Capital Region King's Landing I feel kind of silly, having spent three years in Fredericton and never having gotten to King's Landing. This site includes an historical re-enactment of the loyalist settlers to New Brunswick. King's Landing also participates in several EdVentures, a program in Fredericton that offers a variety of interesting leisure courses (ongoing or one-off). King's Landing: http://kingslanding.nb.ca/ EdVentures:http://www.edventures.ca/en/ Moncton Region Tidal Bore The Petitcodiac river is the muddy body of water that runs through the centre of Moncton. Coming off of the Bay of Fundy (with the world's highest tides), the river itself is also tidal, and that gives rise to an interesting natural phenomenon: the daily tidal bore, where the Petitcodiac goes from damp and muddy to a running river very quickly. This year, the tidal bore made headlines when surfers started riding the wave down the river-even CBC comedian Shaun Majumder joined in on the fun! The tidal bore times can be found here http://www.waterlevels.gc.ca/eng/station?sid=175 Note that, as a natural phenomenon, these times are only approximate and change daily. Northumberland Shore Pays de la Sagouine Pays de la sagouine is a reenactment/theater combination, bringing to life characters from Acadian Author Atonine Maillet's book of the same name. Located outside of the beautiful town of Bouctouche, it's an interesting opportunity to experience a bit of Acadian culture. http://www.sagouine.com/index.php/en Miramichi Metepenagiag Heritage Park Metepenagiage Heritage Park, located in the Miramichi area, features and information centre and walking trails showcasing the Mi'kmaw heritage of New Brunswick. It offers a unique opportunity to learn more about one of the First Nations cultures in New Brunswick, and is definitely one of the places I most want to visit in 2014. http://www.metpark.ca/ North Shore Village Historique Acadien Village Historiue Acadien is a re-enactment of Acadian communities, and is located near Caraquet. The village is meant to represent Acadian history in New Brunswick over the period since the Deportation in 1755. http://www.villagehistoriqueacadien.com/index_en.cfm

My to do list: Nova Scotia

With Summer 2014 just around the corner, I'll be doing a series of posts throughout April to give you ideas, background information, and tips and tricks to prepare for travelling to/in the Maritimes this summer. On Mondays, look out for my 2014 to-do lists for Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Cape Breton Island, and Prince Edward Island. On Fridays, stay tuned for a variety of articles about local culture, regional food specialties, and some travel tips. Suggestions for articles are always welcome! Travelling frequently for work means that I get to see a lot of the region, and taste of lot of its food. The trade-off, however, is that I often have to drive right by places that I'd love to spend the day exploring. It also means that I often find great spots I'll never see again. These lists include the places I hope to get to stop this year, and the places I hope to get back to. Today, we'll be starting with Mainland Nova Scotia (Cape Breton Island will be covered in a separate article). Attractions To see: Grand-Pré National Historic Site Last summer, I had the opportunity to head to the Annapolis Valley and the South Shore of Nova Scotia for the first time in a long, long while. As someone who is passionate about history and politics, I made a point of stopping ever so briefly at Grand-Pré. Briefly not because I wasn't interested,but because we passed through late and it was closed. For those who don't know, Grand-Pré National Historic Site commemorates the Acadian settlement of Nova Scotia, as well as Expulsion- a dark moment in Nova Scotia's history when, in 1755, the British removed the Acadian farmers who had been in Nova Scotia, forcefully deporting thousands of people from their homes. A UNESCO world heritage site, Grand-Pré teaches about an important chapter of the region's history. Drives To See: The Eastern Shore It's been a very long time since I've been to Nova Scotia's Eastern Shore- the region in the lower half of the province between Dartmouth and Canso. The Eastern Shore is a little further off the tourist path-you won't find any major highways out here- but nonetheless is bound to include some memorable adventures. To Return to: The Evangeline Trail I drove the Evangline Trail, a beautiful route along Nova Scotia's Fundy Shore, in bits and pieces last year. Following through the communities of the Annapolis Valley and down to Digby and Yarmouth, the Evangeline Trail provides a scenic alternative to Highway 101, and takes you by some of the more interesting and picturesque communities in the province. Food Must Return Those who've read through my blog know that I've had some great meals in NS. Picking just one would be impossible: the good news is, since this is my blog, I don't have to! So instead, here are my top picks by region (each of these has an article of its own: Halifax: Chaa Baa Thai South Shore: Dan's Ice Cream Annapolis Valley: Paddy's Pub Amherst: Duncan's Pub

Local Specialty: Poutine Râpée (Hertiage week)

This post is the second in a series I'm doing during New Brunswick Heritage Week, the 10th of February 2014, until the 17th. For my third heritage week post, I thought I'd introduce readers to one of the regional cuisines in the Maritimes. Now, I'll bet that when you looked at the title and saw "poutine" many of you were expecting this to be an article about french fries covered in sauce and cheese curds. Good guess,but this poutine is actually quite different. Poutine râpée (râpée meaning grated) is an Acadian specialty that you aren't likely to find outside of Acadian communities-making it a must-try for anyone who wants to sink their teeth into the culinary traditions of the Maritimes. A few years ago, I had to make a quick trip to Northern New Brunswick on short notice. I was rather excited by this, having never had the chance to visit Northern NB before. My trip was to be a short one, but I made it my goal-nay, my mission-to try poutine râpée at least once. I asked the advice of my Acadian friends on where to try it, and was told to stop pretty well anywhere, particularly in Kent County. On this advice, my travelling companion and I pulled off the highway in Bouctouche, a beautiful little community along the Acadian Coastal Drive scenic route. Within minutes we spotted a place called Leo's take-out, which had a great big sign advertising that it sold poutine râpée. Neither of us having tried the dish before, we didn't have the greatest idea as to what to expect. Essentially, poutine râpée is a ball of boiled potato with meat inside. The texture is hard to describe-not dissimilar to mashed potatoes, but definitely not mashed potato like, either. Consisting of meat and potato, it's a pretty filling dish, and while I don't remember the price, is fairly cheap. To my surprise, I would up travelling through Northern NB more than expected that Summer, and made a point of trying poutine râpée again. This time was at a little restaurant somewhere on the side of highway 11. I can't quite remember the name or the location, but darn do I wish I did-the menu was full of different dishes which were on my "must try" list. The poutine râpée here was also fantastic, and confirmed for me that I am indeed a fan of the dish. So, if you're looking to try a filling food that's unique to the region, I definitely recommend poutine râpée. You'll be able to find it at a variety of restaurants in Acadian areas throughout NB, particularly the small take-outs and diners. If you're in the Moncton area, I recommend you try La Poutine à Maman, a nice little restaurant with friendly staff and great prices. And if anyone knows the name of the restaurant I might be thinking of on Highway 11 (between St. Louis de Kent and Miramichi, if I recall correctly), PLEASE let me know!

Downtown Fredericton walk (Heritage Week)

This post is the second in a series I'm doing during New Brunswick Heritage Week, the 10th of February 2014, until the 17th. For day two of heritage week,I thought I'd write about some of my favourite heritage-related places in downtown Fredericton. This post takes the form of a walking tour, mostly along the river, with a few extras thrown in for good measure. Downtown Freddy is fairly easy to navigate, so don't feel like you'd have to follow this tour per se; you'll find all of these places easily enough in whatever order you like. As always, I'm sure to have missed loads, so please fill me in on anything you think should have been on this list! Waterloo Row Right along the river on the eastern edge of downtown, Waterloo Row is my favourite place to start. The attraction here is the houses: big, beautiful, old houses dating back to the earlier days of loyalist settlement in Fredericton. Along the river, you'll find a pathway perfect for strolling along through downtown (and skipping waiting at many of the red lights). For a closer view of some of the older houses, though, you might want to walk along the sidewalk. Either way will bring you under a decommissioned railway bridge-turned-pedestrian pathway: a perfect detour for some of the best picture-taking views of the river and downtown Fredericton. Either side of the bridge is connected to a full network of pathways and green spaces. Christ Church Cathedral and Town Plat Continuing past the bridge, you'll come to a split in the road at a small war memorial. To the left is Christ Church Cathedral, and the Town Plat neighbourhood generally. If you're looking for more of the colonial style architecture that you saw along Waterlow Row, take a stroll through this neighbourhood. If you're interested in Art, Gallery 78 is located on this corner, and the Charlotte Street Arts Centre is nearby. Queen Stret If you continue to the right at the fork in the road (following the river), you'll next come to the New Brunswick Legislature. The Legislature is one of my favourite buildings in town, and not just because I'm a politics junkie-it's also one of the most beautiful in Fredericton.

Across the street, you'll also find one of Fredericton's most popular attractions: the Beaverbrook Art Gallery. This is a must-see if you're an art fan. Continuing down the Street, you'll come to the Fredericton Playhouse, on your left, and the old York County Courthouse, now a government building, on your right. Officer's Square and the Garrison District Just passed the corner of Queen and Regent, you'll come to Officers' Square and the Garrison District. Officers' Square is a large open area where a wide variety of events take place. In the Summer, you may see a concert or the Fredericton Multicultural Festival here. In the Winter, you'll see skating. During the Summers, a changing of the guard ceremony takes place daily.

The nearby barracks have been turned into a variety of small artisans' shops, perfect for perusing. History buffs will also want to take a gander through the York-Sunbury Museum. Queen Street Shops and Picaroons Economusée If you're interested in doing a bit of shopping, head back onto Queen street, where you'll find a variety of cute little shops, which continue down York Street and King Street as well. Queen Street is also home to the Picaroons Economusée, a mini museum explaining the story of Picaroons, a local brewery. The New Brunswick Sports Hall of Fame is also located nearby. Lighthouse and Saint Anne's Point A giant walking bridge will take you over the road back to the walking paths by the river. Here, you'll also find Lighthouse on the Green, a lighthouse built as a tourism information centre (it also sells ice cream!). The Road which passes behind officer's square (the one the foot bridge takes you over) is named St. Anne's Point Boulevard; Saint Anne's Point was an Acadian Community that was built several decades before Fredericton was founded; it, along with many other Acadian communities, was destroyed by British Forces in the mid to late 1700s. Old Government House I'll end my walking tour at the Old Government. This beautiful and stately building once served as residence to NB's Governors. No longer an official residence, it is now open for visitors. Bonus: Marrysville If you have a car, take a drive over to Marrysville, on Fredericton's North Side. Marrysville is a historic mill town, and much of the old architecture remains. The community is built along the Nashwaak river, and is located within 15 minutes of downtown.

Covered Bridges (Heritage Week)

This post is the first in a series I'll be doing during New Brunswick Heritage Week, starting today, the 10th of February 2014, until the 17th. One of the most iconic symbols of New Brunswick is the covered bridge. You'll see it on advertisements; you'll hear people talking about it; heck, there's even a snack food named for it. Covered bridges dart the province's countryside, often pointed out by a small blue sign on the highway, and frequently bringing you to a nice, secluded landscape. For this first in a series of NB heritage posts, I decided to talk about a few of the covered bridges that I know of in NB. I should note that I stuck to three of my favourites, all for different reasons. There are many covered bridges in NB and staff at tourist centres would be happy to help you find one near where you're staying. New Brunswick's most famous covered bridge is located in Heartland, Carleton County, and was once featured on the google doodle! Handy to the City: Rusagonis Covered Bridge near Fredericton If you find yourself in the Fredericton area, there's a covered bridge no more than 40 minutes from town, in a pretty area called Rusagonis. This was my first covered bridge, to my memory, and was an exciting find. If you're passing through Fredericton but would like to get to see a quintessential covered bridge, this is a good option. It's a little tough to find; luckily, if you follow the exit for Rusagonis and Geary off the TransCanada (Highway 2), you'll find a NB Tourism information centre located inside the Irving, where they should be able to explain the directions a little better than I would. There's also signage indicating the covered bridge. Best Secluded Covered Bridge: Nelson Hollow Through all of my travels in NB, Nelson Hollow covered bridge is one of my favourite discoveries. Located off of Highway 8 just south of Doaktown, look carefully for the sign indicating a covered bridge-it's easily missed. The steep dirt road may be hard on some vehicles, and the bridge is more of a pedestrian one than a road one, so you might prefer to park at the top and walk down. The covered bridge itself is in a pretty little location, surrounded by trees and near the edge of the river. On either side of the water crossed by the covered bridge, there's also the skeleton of another, larger bridge which once spanned the same water.

Great for a quick stop: Covered Bridge Visitors Centre If you're driving along the TransCanada between Moncton and Fredericton, consider stopping at the Covered Bridge VIC. Here, you'll find a a visitor's centre built in the shape of a covered bridge, complete with information, washrooms (which have won awards online), and a gift shop. This is the perfect opportunity to see a covered bridge if you don't have the time to take a trip out to one, and is located very close to the main highway. The centre is a non-for-profit and accepts donations. Find out more here http://coveredbridgevic.com/aboutus.htm

Did I really say there was a snackfood? Yes! Covered Bridge Potato Chips are a delicious, and quintessentially New Brunswick, snack that you can pick up across the province (and, I'm told, sometimes outside of it as well). They come in a variety of flavours and are made from NB potatoes. Their factory is also located in Heartland, home of NB's most famous covered bridge.

Boneheads BBQ

Towards the end of the summer, my coworkers and I were looking for a place to head for our last night working in Halifax. When we first started working in metro for a few days, I had made a promise to show my two coworkers some of my favourite restaurants in the city, since neither of them had been before. Boneheads was on that list since the very beginning; I was craving some good, southern-style barbeque. So, saving some of the best for last, we headed out to Boneheads on our last night in Halifax, my coworkers looking for a good meal, and me hoping not to break my streak of suggesting good places in the city. I'm happy to say that Boneheads delivered. We got there towards the late evening. It wasn't too too hard to find parking, though I would imagine that that there South End location might be harder to park at during the lunch rush. The restaurant is a cute little corner place situated towards the end of Barrington Street (just keep driving, you'll find it!). You order at the counter, sort of like a fast food restaurant, but don't let that fool you. While you're waiting for your food, you'll probably notice the entertaining decor of the place-signs and pictures filled with jokes and puns all about BBQ meat. The menu essentially consists of an assortment of BBQ meats, mostly sandwiches, that you can order either individually or as a platter. The platters come with two sides, plus cornbread. The sides are a variety of southern BBQ staples: mac and cheese, potatoes etc. The prices are a little on the higher side-you'll probably wind up paying about 20 dollars for a platter (sandwich, two sides, and cornbread)-but the quality and quantity (the meals are huge, be prepared for that) are worth it. Pretty much everything on the menu I would expect to be fantastic. I've ordered the brisket, and love it. My coworkers were also thoroughly impressed with their meals, to the point of going up to the counter and thanking the staff at the end, and telling me that this was their favourite place we'd been to so far. I echo this endorsement: Bonheads has fantastic food. I also need to add a quick note about the service. When I ordered, there must have been some kind of confusion between me and the man taking my order, since I accidentally wound up with the sandwich and side instead of the platter. I noticed this when I wound up without cornbread (which, secretly, was my entire motivation for going to Boneheads: it's hard to find cornbread that good without going to the South!). When I asked if I was supposed to have cornbread, the guy and I both realized our miscommunication; quickly, he apologized and gave me a piece of cornbread, free of charge. I was thoroughly impressed-not a lot of places would do this, but Boneheads knows that this kind of a simple gesture towards a client will get me back in the door next time I'm in town. Overall, a great place. Friendly staff, entertaining decor, good location, fantastic food-and in large enough quantities that you will leave full. The only caveat is that Boneheads isn't cheap-you get what you pay for. Also, parking could be an issue at busier times.